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nik-m

New Member

1

Saturday, May 30th 2009, 2:02pm

NEED HELP: Sprinkler will not turn on

My sprinkler system will not turn on. I had it winterized in October and turned it on now, but it won't come on. I have 2 Toro Flo Pro control valves, which I suspect is where the problem lies. I checked the voltage at the solenoids and both are 24v. The solenoids also work when I turn them on manually (I can see the plungers retract all the way when the solenoids are turned on. I removed the diaphrams, inspected them for tears, etc., and cleaned them both. Now when I turn on the system, I can hear a slight swishing noise at the controllers but the water does not come out of the sprinklers. The diaphrams have 2 white beads on the underside. Do they need to be aligned in a certain position? Do the solenoids need to be fully tightened? When the solenoids retract and release the pressure above the diaphram, where does the air go (is there a vent somewhere)? It looks to me that the pressure is being released only partially by the solenoids, which is causing the diaphram to lift up only slightly; hence the swishing noise. If the pressure is released more, perhaps the diaphram will lift up all the way and the sprinklers would work? Any help would be appreciated.

hi.todd

Supreme Member

Posts: 417

Location: Houston, Texas

2

Saturday, May 30th 2009, 5:17pm

Check your water source and back flow device/

You probably have no water source or it is closed.

Good Luck.

Dan :thumbsup: 8o
:thumbup: :thumbsup:

nik-m

New Member

3

Sunday, May 31st 2009, 1:04pm

I checked the water source, it's on. When I unscrew the solenoid a couple of turns, the sprinklers do come on. However, in this position they do not turn off. I think the reason is that when the solenoid is loosened, the air above the diaphram is released and the diaphram lifts up. As a result the sprinklers turn on. The solenoid is supposed to perform this same function I believe (i.e., releasing the air above the diaphram). But, although they do retract, for some reason the air is not being released. Hence my earlier question - is there a vent somewhere through which the air escapes when the solenoid plunger is retracted? Thanks.

hi.todd

Supreme Member

Posts: 417

Location: Houston, Texas

4

Sunday, May 31st 2009, 8:15pm

I know that you mentioned that you inspected the diaphragms and did not find any issues. I would replace the diaphragms. If your water source is good, your current is good, you are able to turn the solenoids and get the valves to open, you should replace the guts of the valve. solenoids and diaphragms. You may get away with just the diaphragms. There may be other opinions.

Good Luck.

Dan :thumbsup: 8o
:thumbup: :thumbsup:

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,074

Location: Metro NYC

5

Monday, June 1st 2009, 5:47am

Replace the Flo-Pro valves with something else - life will be simpler.

nik-m

New Member

6

Monday, June 1st 2009, 9:15pm

Y E E E S S ! ! I was able to get the sprinklers to work (quite by accident). As it turnedout, I didn't have to replace any parts. Here's what I did -

1. The Flo Pro diaphram has two white beads on the underside. When installing the diaphram, I aligned the beads across the flow of water. In this position, they rest on two small shoulders of the water pipe. I guess this prevents the diaphram from being pushed in too far by the spring and getting stuck in the closed position. I couldn't find this alignment requirement anywhere in Toro's documentation.

2. I changed the "O" rings on both solenoids. The rings are seated just above the solenoid threads that screw into the valve jar top cover. The "O" rings I used were slightly thicker than the ones that were already there, and this made the solenoids fit snugly onto the valve and prevented air leaks. I am guessing that the swishing noise I mentioned earlier in the thread was because air was leaking around the "O" rings (although I can't say this for sure).

3. I used teflon tape on the threads when screwing in the valve jar top as well as the solenoid.

Ok, so I got the sprinklers working, but I don't know for sure which of the above steps resolved the issue. The principle of how the valve works is still a mystery to me. E.g., when the solenoid retracts, where does the air escape from? The solenoid is a sealed unit with no ports/vents for the air to escape.

Wet_Boots is right. The next time I have any problems with the valve, I'm going to replace it and save myself the headaches. And, thanks Hi Todd for your help as well.

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