Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.
Munch7707
Unregistered
Munch7707
Unregistered
I thought about a check valve but then figured the water between the check valve and the pond would drain back into the pond. Then there would be a 5-8 foot section of pipe that would not have any water in it. Wouldn't this be bad for the pump? The pump would start up because it had water in it but then quickly pump that out and have an air bubble in a sense.a floating intake is a great idea for several reasons, including the already-mentioned area of clearer water near the surface of many ponds
better off to not bother with a foot valve in the pond, if you can manage with a check valve at the pump inlet
if you use a long filter screen attached to a wood plank float, all that's really visible is the plank
I'd love to hear an explanation of how a foot valve presents no problem when draining a suction line.I service a number of systems that have both check valves before the pump and foot valves. They all have long runs before the pumps and sit several feet above the intake. Really not practical to not have a foot valve. The check valves make them difficult to prime and difficult to drain for winter. In one case, whoever installed it installed a check valve on a vertical stretch of PVC and buried it in 6" of sand. With no practical way to get the water out and really no way to tell that the intake line was still full of water, the thing froze and was replaced sans check valve the following spring. Works much better.