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Sunday, August 7th 2016, 5:58pm

Toro 252-06-04 1 in. FPT Angle Valve with Flow Control Always Weeping

The subject valve was always weeping by at the low point drip sprinkler on my zone 1 drought tolerant installation. Hours after the unit shut off, a wet spot would form weeping out on to the sidewalk. I was able to see the 2 gph irration drip dripping water. The higher elevation drips were not weeping.

The subject solenoid valve is at the highest elevation of the slope.

I bought a complete replacement valve from Sprinklerwarehouse, and simply removed the old top assembly including diaphragm, diaphragm seat, and replaced it with the new one. I inspected the old one and found two small cracks in the diaphragm seat and thought that was the cause. I also replaced the solenoid, plunger, spring being sure to put the pointy end up on the plunger.

I inspected the inner diaphragm seat in the valve body attached to the piping and found it to be in perfect condition.

I ran water through the opened valve to flush out any impurities and found none.

I reassembled the valve being very careful to cross torque the bolts. Assembled the solenoid being sure not lose the o-ring.

I also verified that the little o-ring on the removable valve body that seals the pilot port was in place.

I activated the solenoid valve, drips all worked, and watched the low point still weep by when in "off" condition. I pulled the top off the Pepco octa bubbler 8 port 2GPH distributor that feeds this low elevation drip and was surprised at the volume of water coming out. More than just the higher elevation draining down.

I put the top back on the Octa bubbler. This time I removed the manual activator and let air and water flow out the top of the valve for about a minute. I reinserted the manual activator (long thin rod with screw turn on top), and rechecked the low port feed and it was totally still!

Activated it electrically again, and hours later it's still weeping by after being in "off" position.

The only thing left to replace is the main valve body which of course is a huge job.

What else is left to try?? Every other part except the outer valve body has been replaced. No other head drips by except this low point.




Supreme Member

Posts: 5,292

Location: Metro NYC


Sunday, August 7th 2016, 7:19pm

It is almost certainly the valve body at fault, when you perform a complete "guts swap" and still have this problem. You don't have to see a crack, for one to exist.


Sunday, August 7th 2016, 8:37pm

Shoot. I was afraid of that. How on earth do you get these out? both the exit and the entrance are 1 " threaded. It looks like the vertical and horizontal PVC have threaded adapters on the 1 " pipe.

Does it really require pulling out the green valve box and then excavating to the point where I can cut the horizontal line unscrew it from the vertical inlet and then somehow get a 1 " threaded union in where I cut the horizontal discharge pipe?



Supreme Member

Posts: 5,292

Location: Metro NYC


Sunday, August 7th 2016, 10:26pm

You have to dig it free and cut the outlet pipe so you can unthread the valve body and thread a new one in its place. You don't need any threaded unions, as you can employ a telescoping coupling in the repair

By the way, there are less expensive angle valves to be had.



Posts: 2,319

Location: USA


Monday, August 8th 2016, 12:25am

You can leave the box in place. Just dig around it like Boots said. Dig up the pipe on the outside of the box.
Cut the pipe inside the box and outside the box. Take that pipe out. Unscrew the valve if there's room. If it's right against the edge you might have to dig up the box. Hopefully the valves aren't so close together that you can't unscrew it. If they are we have more ideas for you.
The rest should be obvious.
Here's a tip. Buy a slip cap and put it over the end of the open pipe so dirt doesn't go down and clog up your dripline while you're working.
I'm not sure where your pvc stops and the dripline begins. Just keep it clean.
Good luck!


Thursday, August 11th 2016, 7:17pm

Im extracting the valve this weekend. OK to use that flexible, Orbit 1" piping with the PVC couplings on each end for the discharge connection between the valve and discharge pipe?


Supreme Member

Posts: 5,292

Location: Metro NYC


Friday, August 12th 2016, 7:45am

pro experience with installing Orbit products is about nil - you might do just as well with a common compression coupling


Friday, August 12th 2016, 9:59am

Thanks for that Mr. Boots! I'm trying to bridge an awkward alignment between the valve discharge and the discharge line. Looks like the installer used a combination of 3/4" 90 deg elbow plus a 45 deg. I need to figure out how to cut everything out leaving enough to replicate how they did it originally.

I verified I didn't have any leakage current across the solenoid, betting heavily that changing out the valve body plus the guts will finally solve this leaking-by-when-off failure mode.


Supreme Member

Posts: 5,292

Location: Metro NYC


Friday, August 12th 2016, 10:36am

Good luck!


Monday, August 15th 2016, 11:48am

Dug it up and cut it out this week end.


  • Existing valve body had a small leak around the Toro threaded plug in the unused discharged. No teflon tape was used a decade ago. I thought that must be what was causing the weeping on the discharge.
  • Removed old valve, redid the tape, put the old valve on a temporary 6" threaded 1.5" nipple to elevate it up where I could see everything going on. Turned the water on, still leaked by!
  • Put the new valve body on my elevated test rig, everything was tight, no leak by
  • I have inspected the old valve body, that still failed with the new guts and cannot for the life of me determine why it failed with the new guts.
  • How do you pull out those green valve boxes to get better access to the valves? It took forever to remove enough dirt to get the clearance to unthread the valve, and to be able get the pieces in there to glue in the PVC elbows, unions and such.

Thanks for your help here, much appreciated.

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