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Tim57

New Member

Posts: 13

Location: Seattle, Washington

21

Thursday, September 28th 2017, 11:08am

The pipes would be sticking out of either flower beds or small landscaping rocks but not grass. I'm still thinking about how to disguise the white pvc as a couple of the pipes will be 24 inches tall. I thought maybe wrapping the pipes with black electricians tape would help conceal them against the black chain link fencing. I don't know what else I can do given my topography and the need to locate the anti-siphon valves 12 inches above the sprinkler heads and avoiding the underground back flow valves. Your thoughts please.

Thank you!

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,144

Location: Metro NYC

22

Thursday, September 28th 2017, 12:33pm

Black spray paint is fine for lessening the visibility of the PVC pipe, as well as providing some UV protection (the valves don't need UV protection) - If you have the sprinklers next to the fence on head-to-head spacing, a shallow flowerbed can be covered from the lawn heads - there are self-seeding annuals that can work as a border bed - I've seen sweet alyssum used this way, and it gives a nice scent when there's enough of it


Tim57

New Member

Posts: 13

Location: Seattle, Washington

23

Friday, September 29th 2017, 5:29pm

A couple few more questions:

1. Regarding the subject of anti-siphon valves requiring to be 12" higher than the sprinkler heads. Do you measure this elevation difference from the ground level of the sprinkler head or the elevation they're at when in operation i.e., the pop-up sprinkler heads.

2. If I'm using the Irritrol 2713APR, can I go with the bottom of the line Rain Bird 5000 heads since I can adjust the pressure of the entire zone at the 2713? I don't think I'll benefit from the added features of the top of the line heads. Your thoughts.

3. What is your recommended controller based on the following features:
a. Indoor installation
b. 5-6 Zones and 4 programs
c. Rain Sensor
d. Master Control Valve
e. Non-Volatile Memory
f. Seasonal Adjustments

Thank you.
Thank you.

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "Tim57" (Oct 1st 2017, 12:51pm)


Tim57

New Member

Posts: 13

Location: Seattle, Washington

24

Monday, October 2nd 2017, 6:34pm

A couple few more questions:

1. Regarding the subject of anti-siphon valves requiring to be 12" higher than the sprinkler heads. Do you measure this elevation difference from the ground level of the sprinkler head or the elevation they're at when in operation i.e., the pop-up sprinkler heads.

2. If I'm using the Irritrol 2713APR, can I go with the bottom of the line Rain Bird 5000 heads since I can adjust the pressure of the entire zone at the 2713? I don't think I'll benefit from the added features of the top of the line heads. Your thoughts.

3. What is your recommended controller based on the following features:
a. Indoor installation
b. 5-6 Zones and 4 programs
c. Rain Sensor
d. Master Control Valve
e. Non-Volatile Memory
f. Seasonal Adjustments

Thank you.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,144

Location: Metro NYC

25

Friday, October 6th 2017, 3:20pm

18-24 inches tall is a good practical minimum for the valves - if you have them too low, the tops can get chewed on by rodents with their feet on the ground, like a scratching post for their teeth - sides of pipes they don't bother

standard rotor heads are fine - only for long slopes do you need heads with check valves to counteract drainage

I don't use controllers with 4 separate programs. No need for it. Hunter makes the X-Core series, with 3 programs, and the features anyone might need.

DoctorIrrigation

Unregistered

26

Friday, October 6th 2017, 3:24pm

What size main service line?

I have designed irrigation systems for decades, I don't know everything but here are my 2 cents.

5/8" and 3/4" meters 10 gpm
1" meters 15 gpm
1.5" meters 40 gpm
2" meters 60 gpm

You can go slightly beyond the listed gpm but remember the meter is supplying water for other purposes besides irrigation.

In all my design experience I never had a system not work using this formula, except for one. After an on-site inspection I found a sever kink in the copper yolk just downstream of the 3/4" meter. The yolk was replaced by the City and the problem was solved.

BTW, never confuse pressure with flow, they are two totally different things. The meter with the kinked yolk had almost 90 psi but the flow was only about 4 gpm because of the kinked yolk.

Hope this helps. :thumbup:

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