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seansy59

Advanced Member

Posts: 97

Location: NJ, USA

1

Wednesday, February 1st 2012, 4:07pm

Sprinkler Spacing

As you might of read in my recent posts, I am re-designing and re-doing some of my system this spring. It was destroyed by many moles/gophers (which we are taking care of before the re-install).....so, I thought it would be a good time to get some more coverage in some areas that need it, and use up the last zone valve I have.

My yard is a terrible shape. It gets smaller and smaller as you go toward the house, and changes shape as you walk closer. I currently have 2 zones for my pretty big large front yard. I centered a row down the center because I couldn't dig where the roots are for huge trees. Well, I need to add the 3rd zone, and while trying to measure where heads go, I have 2 rotors that are only 18' apart, then they go to 34' apart. This is because of a tree.

How far do you usually place rotor heads at a minimum? I am trying to get even head-head coverage, but its hard with the way my yard is, and with how far the distance from either head ranges due to obstacles. Sometimes they are only 15' away, sometimes 40'. Is it better to just add that extra head if you "think" you may need one.

Is it better to have a whole landmine of sprinklers, or less? I can only fit 3 heads on a zone, 4 heads at the max if I use low flow nozzles. I also prefer rotors because they use less gpm each head. I only have 8 gpm at 45 psi.
I'm no expert..........YET! :D I just like to suggest things and learn... :thumbsup: See what the pro's have to say first.

Central Irrigation

Supreme Member

Posts: 304

Location: Central Minnesota

2

Thursday, February 2nd 2012, 3:22pm

Better to put it in and reduce flow than not and wish you had.



Are the tree roots the problem, or is the tree's location in regards to your layout the problem. If you worked for me and you didn't want to dig through the roots, well I'd hand you a saw and tell you lunch will happen when the head is in. If the tree is an obstruction that blocks a sprinkler, than a different layout is needed. Evenly spaced heads will give you what you want.



A diagram of your yard would be mighty helpful.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "Central Irrigation" (Feb 2nd 2012, 3:27pm)


seansy59

Advanced Member

Posts: 97

Location: NJ, USA

3

Thursday, February 2nd 2012, 4:05pm

Better to put it in and reduce flow than not and wish you had.



Are the tree roots the problem, or is the tree's location in regards to your layout the problem. If you worked for me and you didn't want to dig through the roots, well I'd hand you a saw and tell you lunch will happen when the head is in. If the tree is an obstruction that blocks a sprinkler, than a different layout is needed. Evenly spaced heads will give you what you want.



A diagram of your yard would be mighty helpful.

Thanks! The tree and roots are in the way. We have 4 large oak trees right by the lawn. I don't want to kill the trees, as the roots are the main ones for the tree (about 3"-5" thick!) Cutting them would risk the tree. The tree's themselves are also "in the way". But I solved that when I shifted the layout. I have gotten by a few roots before, either cutting them, or going under them....
Below is a image of the lawns. Front/back. The red dots are sprinklers I have in now. The boxes are the watering area needed. The dimensions are estimated from google earth's measurement tool, so it may be off a bit. You can see the trees in the front.
I'm no expert..........YET! :D I just like to suggest things and learn... :thumbsup: See what the pro's have to say first.

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