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Quoted from "jsbeckton" I don't think the water company will be too happy if I tie in outside since the meter is in my basement! Ahh gotcha. I wasn't aware that they put meters in the houses. I'm located in the Pacific Northwest and the meters are usually out by the street.
I've never understood these diagrams that show the main water tie-in inside or under the house.... ( must be a warm climate thing) not a good idea in my opinion. We do our main and drain valves together outside between the water meter and the house. It does suck digging that 3-4 foot hole to get to the water line though.
Maybe this won't work for you...Around here we always tie in to the potable supply before gets to the house..?
Have you verified that you have continuity from your stations to your common?
Quoted from "maximus20895" Make the link look like this: [u!rl='evergreensprinklersupply.com']Evergreen Sprinkler Supply[/u!rl] Just remove the "!'s" in the beginning and end! Thanks!!
Quoted from "maximus20895" BTW: Fix your URL so it works properly Thanks for pointing that out. I havent figured out to fix it yet?
Red Barrons Good valves! They don't make them like they use to anymore! Use part numbers R-1359 or the SPK-HR1 kit. Hopefully Irritrol never decides to discontinue these parts.
That could be the 1/4" test cock... look for a flat head screw slot and turn it to close the valve.
The contractors around here usually double to triple the cost of materials for a labor cost.
Maybe it is a problem with the valve itself. The diaphragm could be bad. Some valves that are a reverse flow will fail closed when the diaphragm has a hole in it.
The valves will usually be in a plastic valve box in the ground. You will have an electric valve for every zone on your clock. Once you find valve you can repair or replace it. You can search on youtube for a how to video. It sounds like a bad diaphragm if the valve is sticking open. That is a pretty easy fix.
It depends on what kind of drip line was used. Does it have check valve emitters and is it pressure compensating? Does it puddle up after its off or while it's on? The difference in pressure may due to the station being too big and using too much drip line. If the line is over 200' in lenght you will start running out off water, specially if you have pressure regulators starting you out at a low pressure.
You won't get the same effect by turning the set screw down. The spray pattern will suffer. You might think about using the PGJ to get a shorter throw. The riser seals should last longer than that. There are a couple of factors that may be shortening the life span. The heads may be set too low and below grade causing them to draw in debris when then pop up and down. Second, you may have really sandy soil causing the seals to wear out faster. The only fix there would be to use a head with a stain...
Quoted from "6010fd12" Quoted from "Evergreen Sprinkler" You shouldn't need those full circles. If you plan to use the mp800sr heads I would just space them evenly every 10 feet. You should end up with 4 quarters and 4 halfs for a total gpm of 2.6. So something like this? These are all 10' except for the bottom right sprinkler that is 8' so I don't water the driveway. Yup. That looks good to me!
Your leak may be bad enough that it is taking pressure from that head so it won't popup.
They could be anything..... a picture would help to identify them.
Hunter SRS spray heads we re notorious for doing this. The only fix for this would be to replace the popup with a new one that has a good ratcheting riser. I like the Hunter pro spray or the Rainbird 1804.
Quoted from "Dagobah" Quoted from "Evergreen Sprinkler" What's the process like to upgrade to a ESPME? You would just replace the complete controller.
You shouldn't need those full circles. If you plan to use the mp800sr heads I would just space them evenly every 10 feet. You should end up with 4 quarters and 4 halfs for a total gpm of 2.6.
Quoted from "jwh" My, old as the hills, RainBird RC1260 just stopped working. It will not ad. nce, and the day control wheel spins freely, not advancing at all. If I manually move the controls from station to station the sprinklers turn on, but they will run endlessly if I don't turn them ahead. I am assuming I may not be able to fix this old controller. If that is true, what shall i get instead? I have 11 stations and do not need anything fancy - just something that turns on and off at the pre...
