Search results
Search results 1-20 of 1,000. There are even more results, please redefine your search.
Well I totally screwed this one up. Nothing I said makes any sense. OOPS! That's what happens when you don't wear your glasses. haha. Maybe it has something to do with a doubler or add a zone type thing.
I can't get your photos to work. Go to www.tinypic.com, upload your pics there then cut n paste the "forum" code to your post. The pictures will appear.
Yeah that's weird. Is the diaphragm spring missing? Make sure the solenoid is snug clockwise. Look for debris inside the valve. See if the new diaphragm has any damage from closing on an object. If you can't figure it out, you know what to do. Yep, change the whole thing. I suppose the seat could be cracked. Have you looked at it closely with a flashlight?
Go to www.tinypic.com, upload your pic there then cut n paste the "forum" code to your post. My eyes aren't good enough to see that tiny thing. Very clever on your part though.
You can totally rebuild your valves with new rubber and washers. Or you could buy something like this and swap the parts. The 3/4" should go on there if it's 3/4". valve That's an excellent price by the way.
I'm not sure if those are 1" or 3/4". Here's a couple of kits to look at. Unscrew the anti-syphon cap and see what's inside. Maybe post a link to that pic. 3/4" 1" click on me
Go to www.tinypic.com, upload your pic there then cut n paste the "forum" code to your post.
It's almost always the diaphragm on the 205. ON the old Richdel there's a white plastic piece holding the diaphragm together. It breaks off and the valve does exactly what you've described. I'm thinking you would have noticed that if that's the case. The white thing and the stainless steel washer would be missing. That valve is an easy rebuild. You've already done it twice. Just buy new parts and swap them out. Maybe since the valve's so old, just buy a new 205 and swap out the diaphragm and the...
Is this it? Click on me When I posted this I didn't realize they were out of stock. Apparently they don't make them anymore that I could find. Look around on the net. There are many products that will solve your problem. Whenever I find an something's that's really useful, I'll buy a few of them for future use. Many times a product will disappear for various reasons. There probably wasn't enough demand for that union so they lost money.
If you're on a pump that's running dry that could be a problem. But if you're just on city water then I wouldn't worry about it much. Just wait til spring and see what works. You don't want to pay to winterize twice. Maybe call the guy and see what he suggests. Maybe he'll come back and see if everything's working then re-winterize for free. You need to make him aware of the situation in case the pump burned up.
Ok let's try something. Write down your programming if need be because It may get erased. Do a factory reset as stated in your manual. Then, Take the back up battery out. Unplug the controller. Slide that switch to off and slide the modules out. Wait 5 minutes. Put the modules back in. Lock the modules in place by sliding that switch to on. Plug the controller back in. Put the back up batter back in. Now see if it works.
The water isn't causing the pulsing. So it floods when the sprinklers are running?
It could be the common wire to those valves came off. Could be the water's shut off to those valves.
I ran across this just last week on a Rainbird valve. The solenoid was bad. I hadn't seen the pulsating like this before due to a solenoid. On off on off on off. Try disconnecting the wires from the solenoid of valve 11 then running it manually from the controller. Do you still get the fault? If not, change the solenoid.
It sounds like a wiring issue. You should ask the guy to come back. I'd have you move the number 2 wire to the master valve/pump terminal but you said they were working fine when he left. Maybe one of his common wire connections came apart.
Older Rainbird timers are famous for flickering on the wrong setting. Try tapping on the panel. Also try moving the switch from the bottom with a screwdriver. Maybe holding it to the left while you program. Once it's programmed it should work. If you can't get it working, It's time to replace it. You could try a factory reset but I doubt that'll do it. Make sure the grey ribbon connecting the faceplate to the circuit board isn't loose. Open the panel and push on it.
It sounds like the valve is bad. Either rebuild it or replace it. It would help if you could find the make and model of the valve. Or, post a pic of it. Go to www.tinypic.com, upload your pic then cut n paste the "forum" code to your post.
Is the number 6 wire hooked up to the timer? Is the number 6 valve receiving 24 or more volts at the solenoid?
DC? Is it a battery operated timer or does it plug into the wall?
You're hearing water running through the valve because your shut off valve isn't off all the way. That's also why there's water coming out of the sprinkler head. You need to turn the water back on and determine which valve isn't shutting off. The Turn the water back off and replace or repair the valve.
