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You can get the PSI off of your house, just attach a pressure gauge to your hose bib. All you will need is a 3/4 GHT (Garden hose Thread) female adapter to 3/4 FPT (Female Pipe Thread). Then a reducer from 3/4 to 1/4, most pressure gauges are 1/4. Rainbird should be able to calculate the flow based on PSI and service size. For example, you know you have 45 psi and the service is 1" I do not remember the exact calculation, but I would guess somewhere around 20 GPM.
Here is a post that I wrote that outlines the basics of winterizing a system that has a backflow device . Steps for well and pump would be very similar. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.
The easiest spot to blow it out is from the "test port". Those little stems on the side of the backflow device with the plastic cap. Turn off the water, remove the cap, open the test port, by aligning the flat head screw parallel with the test port, to drain off the pressure, screw in a 1/4" air fitting, turn on your air compress, once it has built up pressure to about 40psi, turn a zone on, then repeat this process for all zones. Note: once the main line is clear, usually with the first zone or...
It sounds like an electrical issue with the controller? Unwire one of the zones, then turn that zone on. See if the controller stays on.
I would find a replacement valve, preferably the exact someone that you have. I also recommend taking apart the new one first, so you can see how it works. As opposed to opening one up inside a valve box and risk losing parts. As to how you can either dig the valves up or if you are lucky you will need some way to bail the water out of the hole once you open the valve. You want to MAKE SURE that no rocks or solid debris fall into the valve, that will cause you problems. Your best bet is to get a...
So, you will need to install a Backflow Device, control valves, and wiring. Since you are already running off of your faucet, you can install a backflow off of it. There are some vacuum breakers that can be installed on your faucet, I am not sure if that is legal to do with attaching it directly to a sprinkler system.
I have seen people add a second valve in line with a valve that has been stuck open, instead of repairing the valve that is stuck open. It is a quick and dirty fix at the time but creates problems troubleshooting it down the road. In which case you should be able to see if the field wiring runs to another valve in line with it. What kind of water source are you on? Well, pump or city water? https://sprinklerresource.com
As a contractor, I absolutely hate risers and nipples. When changing out heads I always had the riser come unscrewed then dirt falling back down into the pipe, then I am forced to screw in the replacement while the system is running to flush the dirt out of the threads. LoL, that is my luck!
I agree, stay away from Toro. I have never had any luck with their residential products. Hunter would be the way to go preferably I20's for the rotor heads and try to opt for 6" spray heads for the turf if possible. 6" spray heads pop out of the grass better and are not blocked by higher turf grasses. Definitely stay away from the MPRotors aswell. They have often used a shortcut to mix rotor heads and spray heads on the same zones. If you would like more detail on how to pick the right heads, he...
Unfortunately, I disagree, heads that are used to spray turf should be in the turf. I always install the heads about 2-4 inches inside the turf when along flower beds. That way they don't get damaged during edging. The reason why I do not like them in flower beds is that flower beds typically require more maintenance. Adding new mulch, changing out plants, and adding bed edges all create problems for heads. Flex pipe is often damaged by digging out bed edges. Also, heads tend to get buried under...
Sounds like you definitely have a flow or volume problem. It sounds like your system can not keep up with the demand of the zone. The good news is, there are alternatives. Rainbird's VAN nozzles eat up more water than the standard Rainbird nozzles. Although when you compare the standard nozzle spec sheet to the VAN nozzle it appears they put out the same amount of water. As an alternative Rainbird has the RVAN line, which is basically a Rotating Van nozzle and puts out about half the water as a ...
Standard irrigation valves only have 2 wires. If I am interpreting what you are describing correctly. It sounds like there is some sort of relay logic involved. One relay is "Normally Open" and another "Normally Closed" the only way to tell for sure is to use a meter and measure the voltage. Then wire the valves accordingly. https://sprinklerresource.com
Directly after you T install the ball valve or shut off, next I would install a threaded T with 1/4" threads to hook up an air fitting too. You can install a plug in the 1/4" threads for now. Each city/county have different rules for backflow devices as far as type and even where they can be installed. Check with your local authorities to see what the recommend. https://sprinklerresource.com
More than likely the issue isn't the irrigation system. Being new turf or a newly installed system, most of the nutrients and loose soil remains close to the surface. This is fine until it gets hot and burns the roots. What you end up with is a vicious cycle of keeping the turf wet, but most often it is to wet. With big systems like yours, this is next to impossible. I would consult a turf professional and have them take soil samples and recommend fertilizer schedules. https://sprinklerresource....
5000 and 5000+ are the same nozzle type. The change in color usually designates a "Low Angle" nozzle which doesn't allow the spray pattern to rise into the air as much. Useful when spraying down hill. The 5000+ heads just have an option to turn the water off directly at the head. https://sprinklerresource.com/
If zone 3 is coming on all the time, then the master valve wiring is connected to it somehow. Either a short, bad splice, is there an extra wire in the controller you can wire zone 3 to? https://sprinklerresource.com/
I am guessing you want to use the same heads, just add an additional valve that you control? Essentially what you would be doing is pressurizing the "Zone" side of a valve. When that happens the valve just does not operate, it stays sealed. So no you will not hurt any control valves, you can T into the zone line anywhere and add another valve. There might become an issue if one of the 2 valves fail, which may result in finger pointing and a contractor could push the issue with the HOA to possibl...
It is not uncommon for contractors to wire up systems with extra control wires. They primarily do this for future expansion or if a wire goes bad they can attach it to an extra. 1 of two things have happend, either a line has been capped off or the control valve is not working. Most of the time when a control valve fails it creates a short circuit which will give a fault or a blown fuse at the controller. To see if a field wire has a valve connected to it, you will have to perform a continuity c...
When on a well an pump you want to make sure you don't put out to much water or too little. If you put out too much your pump may begin to cavitate or you will just lose pressure. Too little and you pump will be turning on and off repeatedly. You want to design your system so that your pump is running at about 35-45 psi with a constant flow of water. To do this open a faucet connected to the pump regulate the pressure to 35-45 psi and see how long it takes to fill a 5-gallon bucket. Then some si...
You can add as many valves as you would like, you just need a controller with the amount of zones you require. If you are looking for a specific controller, you can try this one. Hunter makes great products. As for the wiring, you have 1 wire that goes to every single valve, called the common or valve common (VC). Then you have a hot wire, that is wired from the valve to a number that corresponds to a zone. https://sprinklerresource.com/
