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In terms of being most cautious, it would be preferable to do the extra work and run the supply around the perimeter, because dual supply connections invite the possibility of one of them being overlooked at winterizing.
You might pay a surcharge, but you wouldn't be charged double. In any event, you don't run the plumbing downstream of the backflow preventer back into the house, ever. Dig all around the perimeter of the structure if you must.
Still waiting for the model number. I'm going to make a guess that it has "01" in it, and answer accordingly. Sight unseen, you should be fine. The "four wires" part of the description might mean you have an electric master valve to go along with the hydraulic zone valves. If that master valve has a line-voltage solenoid, it would have to be replaced with a 24-volt solenoid. The electric/hydraulic converter units can interface with any hydraulic zone valves. Their main purpose is to work with "n...
What make and model number of controller?
Words to live by, no doubt.
One advantage of buying the entire brass angle valve, is that you can confirm whether its 'guts' (complete internals as a single unit) will swap out with your original valves. Sometimes the body threads on older valves won't be a match for today's brass valves, and it's good to know where you stand, especially if you ever consider converting the valves to electric operation.
If your current setup is dead-heading the pump, then your workaround with the open hose bib can stay in place. A pressure tank could take its place, but they cost money. Have you changed the controller since the system was installed? Dead-heading is not what you plan for, unless you know it won't be a problem.
Do some resistance testing of your wiring. The Orbit Easy Dial series, and indeed any controller powered by a plug-in transformer, is putting out AC and not DC. https://www.orbitonline.com/site_files/m…20(2)1final.pdf
Since you have DV100 valves, you can simply buy DV100F valves and swap the tops. By the way, you need to edit your photos down to a reasonable size and use an image host that allows remote viewing, so that they will show in a forum.
You could simply give them the results of your bucket test, and see if that's enough. Or, you could make up an imaginary supply of a 3/4-inch meter fed by 30 feet of 3/4-inch copper tubing. Whatever their process will make of a theoretical smaller supply should work for what you eventually have installed.
The EV100 can be repaired with parts to fit an Irritrol HR1, which is also long out of production - your EV100 was manufactured by Hydro-Rain (hence the HR1 model number), which was later bought out.
Use the flow controls on your zone valves to dial down the pressure.
If you are feeding a sprinkler system directly from a curbside water meter, you do not really have a service line, so far as a sprinkler system is concerned. For the parts of the US where all water meters are in curbside pits, and a sprinkler system will be supplied from the house plumbing, then the water line from the house back to the meter near the street becomes the service line that needs to be described. For a house that is very far from the street, it may be fed from a service line that i...
Just leave Rainbird out of the loop for now. Do your bucket test. Expect at least 20-25 gpm useful flow. There will be more flow available, but your property (size in acres?) might not need maximum flow.
Just what is the distance the water main and the 1-inch meter? What is the pressure in the street? Is this a curbside meter or not? (these are facts you should share from the get-go, along with your location)
There are service lines and there are service lines. Since Rain Bird is in California, it might be natural for them to assume that the new water service is feeding a curbside meter pit. Other parts of the US might only have meters in basements, and that is where a service line question comes into play. Home is so far from the water main, so a service line of known length and size will figure into pressure loss calculations. And really, who cares. Get the meter installed and make your system conn...
Definitely a mess-up, if there was any way to isolate the winterizing air from the pump. Even then, there are precautions that were not taken in the described winterizing. Air pressure over 60 psi is not needed. A pressure of 95 psi can put heads at risk, not to mention a plastic-case pump.
Water Department poly pipe is a completely different animal. Thicker pipe walls than what goes into sprinkler systems, so heavy duty that typical stainless steel clamps you see in sprinkler system poly connections are too feeble to secure the water department poly pipe connections, which will be made by compression fittings. Don't forget that any plumbing leaks upstream of a water meter would be wasting water no one has yet purchased, so trust the water departments to get it right, if only for t...
Lots of systems wrap pipe(s) the long way around, through the back yard, to reach the far side of the driveway. You simply have to allow for the additional pressure loss for the longer pipe runs.
Thanks for the controller info. The earliest of these things were purely mechanical, and built around a pressure reducing valve. The water supply would still have a pressure tank and a pressure switch, but the tank was just a mini, to pair with a pressure switch. The specialty valve would hold output operating pressure to a set point, and once the sprinkler system stops operation, the internal bypass allowed a small flow to operate the pressure switch. The higher pressure resulting from a low fl...
