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The last 8 posts

Monday, January 20th 2014, 11:16pm

by SmartEarthAustin

Yikes. That's an awful valve. I would change it out to the Hunter PGV if possible. The extended portion of the valve should be pointing up with the diaphragm below. Good luck

Monday, August 5th 2013, 10:57pm

by Wet_Boots

He might be talking about this valve.
Why so he is. I took his word that the valve info desired had vanished from the site, on account of the original pdf link now takes you to a more generic Toro irrigation page, and once you click to valves, you see only jar-tops and that midget 3/4-inch valve, so I figured it must be a one-inch valve like a 250 series that was being looked for.

I'll edit my post above. I think the only thing like an exploded view of the midget valve will come by way of a complete parts breakdown of the entire Toro Res/Com line.

Monday, August 5th 2013, 8:53pm

by mrfixit

He might be talking about this valve.

Monday, August 5th 2013, 6:07pm

by Wet_Boots

Boots posted incorrect info, but he takes it all back, and places the blame where it squarely belongs. On aliens.

Monday, August 5th 2013, 5:34pm

by amateurplumr

Thanks so much for keeping this thread going. I recently had a leak in my dripline that I traced to the Toro 53380 valve which had a faulty diaphragm. Fortunately I had a spare valve that I had bought for extra parts when Home Depot stopped carrying them.

Regrettably, an exploded diagram for this valve does not exist. When you remove the top to look inside, the tiny metal cylinder and spring naturally fall out, so it was invaluable information to know that the pointy part of the cylinder goes up. There are many pieces to put together, and taking the valve apart results in the pieces going everywhere. Having any one of them in the wrong orientation or position could cause the leak to continue and make you think that the problem is somewhere else when it is actually here.

Starting from the bottom, the white plastic part should have the smooth round donut shape facing up, to be covered by the diaphragm fitting against it, followed by the big spring, then with the needle from the top half running through the tiny hole in the center. A diagram is sorely needed. Thanks again for the thread.

Sunday, May 1st 2011, 12:43pm

by Wet_Boots

teh googles is your friend

Better yet, buy a new valve and use it as a guide, as well as a source for parts.

Sunday, May 1st 2011, 1:21am

by mrfixit

The pointy part faces upward.

That's a crappy valve. Replace it before repairing it.

Saturday, April 30th 2011, 8:09pm

by clubfoot

exploded diagram of toro 53380 valve?


I've got a small sprinkler system - only one valve - that wasn't installed by me. (a mistake I won't make again).
It's not working, and I'm trying to diagnose why. The valve won't shut off, regardless of how it's turned on.

I shut off the water at the supply, then turn it back on. sprinklers are not running. If I turn them on, either using the timer or the manual knob on top, they come on but cannot be turned back off without shutting down the supply again.

Any suggestions for how to trouble shoot? I don't suppose anyone has a diagram of the internal assembly of the unit? I fear I may be putting it back together incorrectly (in particular, does the metal cylinder for the solonoid go in with the pointy end up (towards the spring) or down?