You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 1065 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 6 posts

Wednesday, November 18th 2015, 8:06pm

by Wet_Boots

I would say (Febco diagrams notwithstanding) you might have got the testcock numbers wrong, but you should not be using them anyway. Only the upstream testcock can be relied upon to work.

Tuesday, November 17th 2015, 6:34pm

by boniam

Thanks Guys. I tried again and it worked. I had to increase PSI to about 60 initially and BFV sealed. In some cases i had to remove air hose and put it in after pressure built in. Anyway done with my 9 zone for this year. I might do it one more time over the weekend but it was nice to get as much as i could tonight as it is going to be 25 deg here, Thanks again for help.

Tuesday, November 17th 2015, 9:25am

by boniam

Thanks Wet_Boots! Ok Here is the image.

Is the consensus is to use drain port and not Test Port 1 or 2? Should I close both BFP valve v1 and v2, connect hose to drain port, Open V1 when BFP seals open V2?

Is there anyway to use test ports as I have those attachments so would like to get this done quickly for this year. Is there anyway to seal back flow and use test port?

Tuesday, November 17th 2015, 7:27am

by boniam

#mce_temp_url# Sorry I am little confused about terminology.

My setup is like above . Do you think I should blow through drain port and close V2. Let the pressure build and poppet to seal and then open V2.

I don't have fitting for drain port and already hooked up for test ports. Is there a way to use test ports and seal PVB.

EDIT: Sorry my pictures is not coming. I am trying to figure out how to upload pictures.

Tuesday, November 17th 2015, 6:31am

by Wet_Boots

If you have a drain valve upstream of the PVB, then that is always where you connect the air. Don't set the air pressure too high. 60 psi is enough. Close the PVB outlet valve, apply air until the poppet seals, let the pressure rise, then blow out a zone. Repeat this process as necessary. Don't use a small-diameter air hose. Add nipples/bushings/adapters at the compressor, so you can use a garden hose for the air.

Monday, November 16th 2015, 11:16pm

by boniam

Sprinkler winterize through back flow preventer test port not working. HELP

This probably has been covered many times but i still see so many opinion. I have a Febco 765 BFP with two test port. I also have a drain valve between Febco and my water supply but nothing after Febco. I tried to blow through lower test port # 2 and it worked at first for 1 zone but but then started making loud sound on second zone (as if pressure is building and no where to release. Then i tried test port 1 and the air was coming from the top of BFP. I took top of BFP out, took out bonnet and puppet and put it back in. Tried again through test port 1 (upper port) and it worked for 2 more zones before air started coming out again from top of 765.

Questions:
(1) which port should i use 1 (upper) and 2 (lower) or drain valve between house main shutoff and BFP.
(2) What the loud sound might be when using port 2? Could i have damaged BFP?
(3) Is it better to blow from drain valve with little bit higher pressure that would may be seal the BFP popper to bonnet?
(4) My guess is that test port 1 is working if i can get the poppet go up and seal? Somebody suggested putting a spring in between retainer and puppet, will that work? I am also think about just find a fitting to cap (temporarily) the top of BFP. I don't know the size and thread and if it will work. Anybody tried that?

Please help and thanks in advance. I am kind of running out of time for this year.