You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Saturday, November 24th 2018, 10:27am

by Diesel3443

I actually googled the controller and found another way to reset the microprocesser. It worked!!!

Now the master is also getting 24v with all zones.

Saturday, November 24th 2018, 10:13am

by Diesel3443

Unfortunately that didn’t work. I’m tempted just to cut out the don’t two valve for a new one and leave the master manually open

Friday, November 23rd 2018, 9:25pm

by mrfixit

Ok let's try something. Write down your programming if need be because It may get erased.
Do a factory reset as stated in your manual. Then,
Take the back up battery out. Unplug the controller. Slide that switch to off and slide the modules out.
Wait 5 minutes. Put the modules back in. Lock the modules in place by sliding that switch to on. Plug the controller back in. Put the back up batter back in.
Now see if it works.

Friday, November 23rd 2018, 4:06pm

by Diesel3443

I inspected all of the wiring and all the splices look good.

If I manually open the master valve the entire system runs appropriately (zone 2 is weeping though).

It just appears that the controller is not sending 24v to the master valve with any of the zones except zone 2.

I can get the guy to come back out, but I am balking about spending another 200

Tuesday, November 20th 2018, 7:44pm

by mrfixit

It could be the common wire to those valves came off. Could be the water's shut off to those valves.

Tuesday, November 20th 2018, 9:21am

by Diesel3443

What doesn't make sense is now zones 10-13 are not coming on and they were before, even with all of the wires being cut in my original post. I wouldn't think that any of those wires had anything to do with it.

In the meantime I assume that I can turn on the main valve manually and they all should activate, correct?

Monday, November 19th 2018, 11:45pm

by mrfixit

It sounds like a wiring issue. You should ask the guy to come back. I'd have you move the number 2 wire to the master valve/pump terminal but you said they were working fine when he left. Maybe one of his common wire connections came apart.

Monday, November 19th 2018, 1:57pm

by Diesel3443

@Mrfixit I had an irrigation guy come out to hook up all the wires. All worked well. Now I have a new issue, the main valve is not getting power to open EXCEPT when using zone 2. Any ideas?

Sunday, October 7th 2018, 12:15am

by Diesel3443

I’ll keep at it. It’s just crazy, I feel like I found the common wire, I hook it up. Then I still can’t get any of the zones to work. I feel like it should be easy based on your feedback, but I just can’t get anything to turn on.

I’ll also try to see if there is an additional main valve wire like you stated.

I feel like one wire is out of place and that’s the one that needs to be hooked up correctly to get it to work.

Friday, October 5th 2018, 5:35am

by mrfixit

Do you have a question? lol

Since some of the valves come on the master valve wires are ok. If you want to double check to make sure there aren't two master valves, you could move the master valve wire to the number 1 slot by itself then turn on number 1. If none of the wires give you voltage at the break then the master valve wire is good. Put the wire back.

It should be simple from here. I'm guessing there's only 1 common wire. Figure out which one. The rest are zone wires.

Just use trial and error if you have to. Hook up the wires with the timer on and see what works.