SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

It might be that the test cock is simply in the open position. They are quarter turn ball valves, opened and closed with a screwdriver. Check to make sure it isn't open, a simple turn with a screwdriver might fix the problem. If it truly is leaking, it is just a matter of unthreading the old test cock, and threading a new one in. Also, if it is only 6 months old, it should still be under warranty.

I don't know if anyone is still watching this forum . . . .
I have a 825Y that has been in opperation for less than 6 months. It is leaking profusly from one of the test cocks. Do I need to do anything to fix this besides replacing the test cock and if so what is the proceedure?
Thanks for your experience and time.

Make sure you bleed out all the air by using the testcocks. It can make a difference.

I am working with a Febco 825y on a friend's rental. It was discharging out of the plastic discharge vent. I have put in new kit and now it when I turn on the water, sometimes it does a full flush, sometimes it pulsates and then does a full flush, and sometimes it will just dribble out couple little streams about the size of a pencil. I have made sure that the heavy spring is in check 1. I have flushed the entire valve even though there was no sign of dirt in the system.

Hey, it worked! Thanks very much for your help, somehow I got them reversed--
When I put them back the right way it was fine.
Thanks again!
Steve

Since you had both checks and springs out at the same time the springs may have been switched. Remove them again and make sure that the thicker/stronger spring goes into the (top) #1 check. Also make sure that the spring is seated right with the assembly. If it still dumps there may be a problem with the relief gasket. Remove the bolts and check its condition. There shouldn't be any holes/cracks in it other than the manufactured holes. Also check the gasket in the relief assembly itself (white assembly). There is also an o-ring that forms a seal when the assembly is installed into the chamber. Make sure to lubricant that o-ring before re-installing it. Keep in mind that all gaskets should be smooth with no cracks or irregularities. If their conditions look bad replace them with a complete rubber repair kit. The device should still be good and can be salvagable. I hope that helps.

Thanks, I just tried it. Unfortunately it still floods like
crazy out the hole in the bottom.

I have a theory maybe you can confirm. Before this started,
I took out both check valves, then screwed in the caps and turned on
the water. The check valve and spring were not installed. At
that point the flooding leak started.

I'm thinking that maybe this let full pressure into the other part of the unit and blew out some gasket. All this started after I did
that. Is this possible?
If so, what do I do now? I guess I need to remove the 825Y, and
disassemble the right side if it ( the round side with all the bolts).
Is there some gasket or valve in there I can replace? Or is the whole
thing just dead now?

Thanks for any ideas anyone might have...
SGF

Take out the #2 check and turn the gasket over within the assembly. This can only be done once. Each check spring provides a pressure differencial. When there is no longer that difference the water is released through the relief valve. That is just a brief description of how it works. When you lose the seal of your gasket you also lose your pressure differencial. I hope that helps.

Hi,
I have some problem with my sprinklers not coming on. I opened
the test cocks and found that water came out the one on the inflow side, but nothing out of the outflow ones.

I removed the two check valves (top & bottom), cleaned them and put them back in.
Now, water is flooding out the bottom relief valve. I took
the check valves out and put them back in 2 more times, but it's still
coming out. I can't figure out what I did wrong here.

Any ideas? What stops the water from leaking out the relief valve under normal circumstances?

Thanks!