You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 1825 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 7 posts

Sunday, June 23rd 2013, 2:54pm

by jpk


Thanks SO MUCH for your recommendations and advice! I have replaced all three valves! Everything works!

It solved the problem with the value controlling the drip. No more leakage. Now I'm getting more water on the plants and less on the sidewalk next to the valve :)

And, the other two values on sprinklers are now not 20+ year old equipment waiting to fail.

Testing showed the float kit was definitely part of the solution.

Thank you!

Monday, May 27th 2013, 1:01pm

by jpk

Just note if you need a 3/4" or a 1" before purchasing.

Thanks much!

The failing valve says RIchdel 3/4" adaptor although I notice it's not screwed directly into the brass, in between is (maybe) a 1" to 3/4" nut. Not sure if this makes a difference.

Thanks again!

Friday, May 24th 2013, 9:31pm

by mrfixit

I'd replace it with an Irritrol valve adapter. Some call it an actuator. Just note if you need a 3/4" or a 1" before purchasing.
Float Washer
On some of the older brass valves I can't get the float washer anymore so I have to install the whole kit.
The kit basically has three parts. The float, the float washer and the fiber cap washer.
Note that there's two different sized fiber washers on the 1" kits.
All the 3/4 inch kits have the same sized washer.

3/4" kit
1" kit
1" kit

Friday, May 24th 2013, 8:42pm

by jpk

I have no problem replacing a 20 year old part!

It's plastic screwed into brass. Any recommendations on replacement part?

And what's a float washer?


-- Jon

Friday, May 24th 2013, 6:05pm

by Wet_Boots

In general, very-low-flow drip calls for a valve that needs no minimum flow. Those valves are expensive enough to make a zone re-design more practical.

Friday, May 24th 2013, 6:01pm

by mrfixit

Your valve is very old. 20+ years. It might be time to replace it.
Is the valve all plastic or is it plastic screwed into brass?
If it's all plastic a new diaphragm would probably fix you up but you might also need a new float washer. If it's not too much trouble just install a new valve.
If it's plastic screwed into brass you can just replace the plastic valve adapter. You'll probably need a float washer with that valve as well.
Possibly even a new float kit.

Friday, May 24th 2013, 12:14pm

by jpk

drip conversion: valve problems

What happens: the cycle starts, the valve opens, water starts leaking from the anti-siphon, nothing comes out of the emitters, pressure gradually builds, then
the emitters start delivering water but slowly. Really puts the drip in drip, you might say.

Yet if I bleed a little during the cycle, suddenly full pressure arrives and the emitters start to deliver as expected! But the problem returns with the next cycle.

The valve is Richdel and I didn't change it when i converted to drip. The zone has just a dozen or so emitters so probably the flow is low.

I've tried tinkering with bleeding and flow control on the valve. Little or no improvement.

Does this ring a bell?