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The last 3 posts

Sunday, April 7th 2013, 5:12pm

by Central Irrigation

Good advice above. You should also know, the 252 is notorious for closing very slowly when opened by the bleed screw. Obviously, if it takes more than a minute or two to close, then disassemble the valve. Not uncommon for them to take that long though.

Saturday, April 6th 2013, 2:32pm

by pass1

valve does not open

If you have eliminated any electrical problem and the zone runs with the bleed screw open but shuts off as soon as you close the bleed there is a good chance that the exhaust port is blocked. To check, shut main water off. take solenoid off of the valve. There will be a small exhaust port there. Take a small piece of 18 guage irrigation wire and pass it through this port, it should pass through freely. If you feel resistance it may be blocked by a small piece of sand/dirt. If you have difficulty, take the bonnet off of the valve and you should be able to see daylight through the exhaust pot opening. You also have to be sure the port is open in the bottom body part of the valve. The valve will not open if this port is blocked. Opening the bleeder screw serves the same purpose as this exhaust port in allowing the valve to open

Saturday, April 6th 2013, 1:51pm

by neilpilot (Guest)

Can't repair a Toro 252

At the end of last season I discovered that 1 of 10 zones would not start normally. If I momentarily opened the bleed valve with the zone energized, I’d get normal flow. The flow would then continue normally and stop when the solenoid de-energized.

I swapped solenoids with another zone, thinking
maybe the solenoid was bad, and had the same problem.
Resistance across all zones, including the bad
zone, is about 50 ohm.

I believe this is a 1" Toro 252-06-04. I installed a new diaphragm and diaphragm

support (could see no obvious problem with the old diaphragm). After repair,
it still would not operate when the solenoid was energized. To get flow I
opened the bleed valve, but now flow will not stop with the bleed closed and the
solenoid de-energized.



I’d prefer not to cut into the lines to replace
the valve if it can be repaired in place.
Suggestions?