You are not logged in.


Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 1244 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Friday, January 29th 2016, 3:17pm

by mr.low (Guest)

sprinkler system low pressure

hi,did you ever solve the low pressure issue ?

Sunday, April 1st 2007, 10:36am

by Wet_Boots

Aren't tree roots fun? When the constriction is between heads, it is more obvious. No easy cure but to install more pipe.

Sunday, April 1st 2007, 10:07am

by cwwest

Problem fixed! I replaced the valve - not the problem - did not think it was, but thougth it was an easy enough to try. I purchases a 100' roll of 1" poly and bypassed the inground line between the valve and the 1" line near the hose bib I mentioned in previous replies above. The sprinklers worked perfectly. The problem was an obstruction in that line. Now to fix. The line is a 1" poly that was already installed long before I purchased this home so I did not know where it was buried (and it was buried deep). As far as I could tell it went very near two pine trees we had planted about seven years ago so I suspected a root had collapsed the line. Too many roots to dig around to find the original pipe so I dug a new ditch away from the trees and ran a new 1" PVC line. Works great now! Thanks to all those who offered opinions.

Monday, March 5th 2007, 6:08am

by Wet_Boots

Why would the city water supply be able to match the pump? They almost never do. You have stated that there are absolutely no leaks anywhere in the zone, and no one is doubting your word. All that remains is the control valve. Or there might be a constriction in the line between the control valve and the first head. Tree roots? Multiple pressure gauge readings might isolate an area where pressure loss is happening.

Sunday, March 4th 2007, 7:34pm

by cwwest

Thanks for the suggestions. I will replace the valve. BUT - what explains the lack of pressure (input 75 PSI) when directly connected to city water with the connection of the city water directly to one of the heads? The valve is not even in the circuit.

Sunday, March 4th 2007, 5:33pm

by jmduke7

I am with Wet Boots on this one, especially with a valve of that age and it having a metering rod (the metal rod). Over the years of use the metal rubs away when the diaphragm opens and closes. This will cause irregular valve operations. The best thing to do is a COMPLETE valve replacement. I also feel it may be in your best interest to start thinking about the others as well. I would assume they will fail with the same symptoms as this one did. Incidentally, most manufactures of valves abandoned that design for that very reason. They valve would fail due to wear on the metering rod or the orifice inside the metering tube of the diaphragm. This would allow water to flow to the top side of the diaphragm faster than it can be bled off through the solenoid. Just remember this while picking out a new valve. If you stick with a Rain-Bird or Hunter valve you will do fine.

Sunday, March 4th 2007, 7:54am

by Wet_Boots

Replace the valve, <b>the entire valve</b>, if you don't know how to clear the internal passageways in the valve body. This seems to be the only remedy you haven't tried.

Sunday, March 4th 2007, 7:32am

by cwwest

Getting wierder! The valve has a "bleed valve" on top, a long thin metal shaft that goes down the center of the valve with a plastic knob on top. By turning this 1/2 turn you can operate the valve manually. The top of the valve is a faucet type handle so you can turn the valve on manually and adjust the flow just as one would on a faucet. I have the same problem if I use the valve fully open manually and using the system with the automatic timer.

Now for the wierd= I installed a hose bib about 3/4 way between the valve and the first head when I originally installed the system. This is where I have been taking pressure readings. I have connected city water, 75 PSI, to this faucet and turned on full. The connection is thru a 1/2" line. Not enough pressure to raise the heads. I then removed the head at the END of one of the two lines in this zone and connected city water. Again, not enough pressure to raise the heads. So I have fed 75 PSI water from both ends of this line with no pressure getting to the heads! I know I do not have a leak as after two days the lines were still full of water. The heads are about six feet higher than the pump, so no drain back. Ideas? I think I will remove all the heads and flush the system with city water and 120 PSI air from my compressor. Thanks for any suggestions..

Sunday, March 4th 2007, 4:03am

by jmduke7

I am unfamiliar with that model of valve. Does it have a metal rod that goes down the center of the diaphragm from the top to the bottom of the valve?

Sunday, March 4th 2007, 3:36am

by cwwest

This valve and all the valves in the system are: Toro 1" Model 53381. I installed the system 8 years ago.