You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 1183 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 8 posts

Tuesday, July 26th 2011, 9:36pm

by Matt Dildy

Are we talking "Winterizing Blow Out" or "Flushing the Mainline"?
i assumed the original post was talking about new installation "blow out" since they mentioned connecting wires before or after. here in tx since we dont need to winterize irrigation systems "blow out and flush" are used interchangably, both mean the first flush and pressure test on new mainline.

Tuesday, July 26th 2011, 5:12pm

by Central Irrigation

Are we talking "Winterizing Blow Out" or "Flushing the Mainline"?

Tuesday, July 26th 2011, 2:18pm

by Matt Dildy

i know i am in the minority here and i see a ton of contractors "blowing out" systems after completely closing up mainline. as an installer i have always left a place in the mainline as far from meter open to "blow out" before plumbing it closed, weather it be a looped or not. like i said i am in the minority but i would rather blow as much of my large debris (if any) out an open ended pipe than force it all through the valves. but hey i have made a pretty penny on properties that were never "blown" only to have stuck valves a few months later so i guess either way is better than not at all.

Thursday, July 21st 2011, 2:46am

by aswilburn

Just use the controller


Controller, what controller?


Just kidding!

Wednesday, July 20th 2011, 10:55pm

by Wet_Boots

Just use the controller

Wednesday, July 20th 2011, 8:47pm

by aswilburn

hmmmmm. lol. I have blown out thousands of systems,you only need to do it from the clock. But,if you want to do it all three ways,its certainly not going to hurt a thing.
-1st, They really shouldnt leak,or you should not see any water comming out of them.Water may pass through them for a second. If thats what you mean by leak,you are correct. If you are seeing water,thats not really normal.
-2nd There does not need to be any current to manually open/bleed a valve. Valves are basically operated by high and low pressure differences above and below the diaphram. The solenoid and bleeder makes a seal,when you break that seal pressure pops open the diaphram and allows water to pass through,no electricity needed.
-3rd You dont have to,but its a good idea. they are normally closed by tightening,on weathermatic's,the lever should be horizontal to close,and vertical to open. most other valves everything is tight when closed and loose when open/bled.
-4th Wire them up anytime. If you have water to a new valve,they are going to open. if you get a faulty one it may not close.Rain bird DV 100's had a flaw in the o ring that goes on the solenoid,it caused them not to close,thats fixed now. I believe it was a yellow O-Ring,might of been green. If you have one of those that should be the only time youd have any issues,new valves work 99.9999% of the time.


My fault on #1, yes I meant pass through!

Thanks for the info!

Wednesday, July 20th 2011, 7:08pm

by servicetechMA

hmmmmm. lol. I have blown out thousands of systems,you only need to do it from the clock. But,if you want to do it all three ways,its certainly not going to hurt a thing.
-1st, They really shouldnt leak,or you should not see any water comming out of them.Water may pass through them for a second. If thats what you mean by leak,you are correct. If you are seeing water,thats not really normal.
-2nd There does not need to be any current to manually open/bleed a valve. Valves are basically operated by high and low pressure differences above and below the diaphram. The solenoid and bleeder makes a seal,when you break that seal pressure pops open the diaphram and allows water to pass through,no electricity needed.
-3rd You dont have to,but its a good idea. they are normally closed by tightening,on weathermatic's,the lever should be horizontal to close,and vertical to open. most other valves everything is tight when closed and loose when open/bled.
-4th Wire them up anytime. If you have water to a new valve,they are going to open. if you get a faulty one it may not close.Rain bird DV 100's had a flaw in the o ring that goes on the solenoid,it caused them not to close,thats fixed now. I believe it was a yellow O-Ring,might of been green. If you have one of those that should be the only time youd have any issues,new valves work 99.9999% of the time.

Wednesday, July 20th 2011, 1:59pm

by aswilburn

PGV Questions

Ready for blow out, so I got a few questions! I want to operate my valves all 3 ways while blowing out!

1) once I turn the water on to the valves, I understand they may leak a little then close correct?
2) if I want to turn the solenoid to open the valve, must it have current to it?
3) should I male sure bleed screws are tight before turning on water? What position do they normally stay in?
4) when should I wire up the valves? Before I start or after I check for valve operation manually?

I guess these all go together but Im sure you guys can understand what I'm asking? Thanks in advance?